How to determine the eye shape for the best eyelash extension effect

Eyelash extensions with different length, density and colour make the part of the eyes looking outstanding. One effect is suitable for small eyes, the other is optimal for deep-set eyes or for oval eyes. Therefore, you need to know which eyelash extension effect fits perfectly to the client’s eye shape.

How to determine the shape of the eye

Its very important to determine the eye before you start lashing. For that you can use the following methods:

  1. Make an analysis of the client’s eyes. It is recommended to do this with good lighting because it allows you to see the eyes cleary. Look at the eyes to determine the correct shape of the eye.
  2. Determine if there is a crease over the upper eyelid. Examine the eyes very carefully. A lack of crease is a sign of monolid eyes.
  3. Take a look at the position of the outer corner. Imagine a straight line and draw it through the middle of both eyes. Look what position the corners are in with respect to this line. If it is higher, then they are raised, if lower, then they are lowered. If it is difficult for you to imagine a straight line, then use a pencil.
  4. Examine the crease on the eyelid. The customer should open the eyes as wide as possible. If the fold is not visible under the upper part of the eyelid or eyebrow, then the customer has a “hooded” eye shape.

Find out what position the eyes are in the face

  1. Take a close look at the eyes of the client. Look at both eyes at once to determine the location.

  2. Pay attention to the inner corners. How far are the inner corners away from each other? Compare the distance to the size of one eye. If it is shorter than its length, then the customers eyes are set close together. If it exceeds the length, then the eyes are set wider.

  3. The depth of the eye. This indicator is not taken very often by eyelash artists. However, a client may have deep-set eyes or protruding eyes. When a customer has deep set eyes, the upper eyelid visually seems small, since they are pressed into the eye socket. The opposite is true for bulging eyes. They bulge outward from the eye socket towards the upper lash line. To determine the position of the eye, it is necessary to check the size of the eye.

  4. Compare the size of the eye with the rest of the face. Take a close look at the other parts of the face. If the customers eyes are about the size of the nose and mouth, then they are average. If they are smaller or bigger then the customer has small or larger eyes.

Different eye shapes

There are many eye shapes that differ significantly from each other:

Almond-eye-shape: If a customer has almond-shaped eyes, then there is no limit for creativity. Any eyelash extension effect will suit. Feel free to choose the effect you client likes most.

Lower-outer-corners: If the client has lower outer corners, then the “squirrel” effect will look best. It helps to visually raise the corner of the eye and it will look brighter and more open.

Close-set-eyes: Customers with such an eye shape will suit any eyelash extension effect, necessarily with a density of the outer corner. 

Deep-set-eyes: If the customer has deep set eyes, the you should correct them using the open eye look. In this case, the focus will be on the central part of the eye, visually making it more open and wider.

Large-eyes: You should choose eyelash extensions that look very natural. This can be a lash with thickness of no more than 0.15mm, or volume eyelashes with very thin extensions.

Monolid-eyes: For customers with overhanging eyelids or Asians it is recommended to use L or L+ curl eyelash extensions. Their tight curve makes the eye look more visible.


Knowing the customers eye shape and applying the best eyelash extension effect is one of the keys for a professional work. Study the main steps of how to determine the eye shape and you will achieve best results and get many returning customers. Don’t forget to tell your clients the rules of caring eyelash extensions so that the eyelash extensions last as long as possible.

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